How To Lock An E Bike Securely
How to lock an e-bike securely, explained by a reviewer who actually lives with the gear. No fluff, no marketing language, just what works and what doesn't.
I've had a bike stolen twice in fifteen years of wrenching, and both times it was my fault, not the thief's. First one got lifted because I used a cable lock that a pair of bolt cutters went through like scissors through wrapping paper. Second one because I locked the front wheel only and the frame walked away with the wheel still attached to the rack. I've got a German Shepherd who sleeps by my toolbox, and I've got opinions about locks.
Here's the short version: the PUJH 6000W I ride daily costs ~$2,600. The ESKUTE I loan to friends costs ~$1,400. Both are gone in under thirty seconds if you use the wrong lock. I've tested more locking setups than I can count, and I'm going to tell you exactly what works, what's a waste of money, and what thieves do when they see your bike.
The best way to lock an e-bike is a hardened U-lock through the rear triangle and rear wheel, plus a secondary cable through the front wheel, attached to a fixed object that can't be lifted or cut. That's not a theory, that's the setup I've used for 2,300 miles without losing a bike.
Pros
- Sold Secure Gold rated locks stop angle grinders for 2-3 minutes minimum
- A ~$60 U-lock with a good secondary cable beats a ~$200 folding lock alone
- Locking through the rear triangle protects both the frame and the most expensive wheel
- GPS trackers are cheap insurance once the physical lock does its job
Cons
- No lock is grind-proof, only grind-resistant
- Carrying 4-6 pounds of lock on every ride changes how the bike handles
- Most e-bike owners use locks that are too light, too short, or both
Compared to
The cheapest lock that I'd trust with any bike over ~$1,000 is the Kryptonite New York Standard, ~$110. The Kryptonite Evolution chain, ~$80, is lighter but the chain itself can be cut with a decent bolt cutter in about 45 seconds. The ABUS Granit X-Plus 540, ~$180, is the one I recommend to anyone who commutes daily and parks in public. The Hiplok D1000, ~$250, is the only lock I've seen resist an angle grinder for more than 60 seconds, but it costs more than some used bikes.
The reality is that most thieves are opportunists. They're not carrying angle grinders for a bike that might have a cheap lock. They're looking for a 30-second job with bolt cutters. A hardened U-lock changes the math.
Design: What Thieves Actually Do
I've watched security footage of bikes getting stolen in my neighborhood more times than I care to admit. The pattern is always the same. The thief walks past the cheap cable locks, stops at the U-lock, gives it a pull, and moves on. The ones who carry tools go for the frame, not the wheel. They're not cutting the lock if they can cut the rack instead.
The first rule is to lock to something that's not going to give way. A wooden fence post is a suggestion. A metal bike rack bolted into concrete is a target. I've seen thieves lift the whole rack with the bike still attached. It's not common, but it happens.
The second rule is to lock the frame, not the wheel. A front wheel lock is a wheel thief's dream. The frame is the bike. The frame is also what gets recovered when the wheel gets dumped.
The third rule is to lock the rear wheel. The rear wheel on an e-bike has the motor in it. That's a ~$600 part on most bikes. The rear wheel is also harder to remove on the street because of the motor cables. Thieves know this, which is why they often go for the front wheel instead.
Performance: The Range Test I Actually Care About
My lock test is simple. I park the bike in front of my shop in Tucson, lock it with the setup I'm testing, and I watch from inside. I time how long it takes for someone to even look at it. I've done this with five different locks over the years, and a few friends who thought they were funny.
The ~$20 cable lock got looked at, pulled, and cut in about 10 seconds. The guy who cut it wasn't even trying to be stealthy. He used a pair of bolt cutters that cost less than the lock.
The ~$40 chain lock lasted about 20 seconds before the same bolt cutters went through it. The chain links were hardened, but the bolt cutters were big enough and the thief knew where to cut.
The ~$110 Kryptonite U-lock made him walk away. He pulled it, shook it, tried to lift the rack, and moved on. That was the first time I saw a thief give up.
The ~$180 ABUS U-lock got the same reaction. Nobody even tried. The rack was solid, the lock was thick, and the bike was parked next to a cheaper target. That's the point.
The Hiplok D1000, which costs ~$250, is the only one I've seen actually resist an angle grinder. I watched a video of a guy with a grinder spend four minutes on one before he gave up. Four minutes is an eternity on a city street.
The numbers that matter are these: a ~$20 cable lock buys you 10 seconds, a ~$40 chain buys you 20, a ~$110 U-lock buys you a walk-away, and a ~$250 angle-grinder-resistant lock buys you a thief who picks a different bike.
Durability: What Breaks and When
Locks are not maintenance-free. The shackle on my Kryptonite started sticking after six months of Tucson dust. The key cylinder on an ABUS I tested froze up in the cold. The Hiplok's fabric sleeve wore through at the edges after about a year.
The bigger issue is the mounting hardware. The bracket that holds the lock to the frame will rattle loose. The velcro straps on cable locks stretch. The frame mount that comes with the lock is usually garbage.
My recommendation is to carry the lock in a backpack or pannier instead of mounting it to the frame. It's not as convenient, but it doesn't rattle, it doesn't scratch the paint, and it doesn't get covered in road grime.
The Setup I Use
The bike I ride daily is a PUJH 6000W dual motor. It's an absolute beast, but it weighs 130 pounds. If it gets stolen, I'm not chasing anyone. I lock it with a Kryptonite New York Standard through the rear triangle and rear wheel, plus a cable through the front wheel and frame. Total weight is about 6 pounds. Total cost is ~$130.
I park at a rack that's bolted into concrete. I lock the rear wheel and the rear triangle. The frame is the most valuable part, and the rear wheel has the motor. The front wheel is a ~$100 part compared to the motor.
When I'm towing my dog Rex in his trailer, I lock the trailer hitch to the rack with a separate cable. The trailer is 40 pounds of gear and dog, and it's not going anywhere if the bike is locked.
I also have a Tile tracker hidden under the seat. It's not a replacement for a good lock, but it's a way to find the bike if the lock fails. I've had to use it once, and it was worth the ~$25.
Should You Buy a Cheap Lock?
No. I've seen too many bikes walk away because the owner saved ~$50 on a lock. The math is simple: a ~$1,500 bike with a ~$20 lock is a ~$1,500 bike that's gone in 10 seconds. A ~$1,500 bike with a ~$110 lock is a bike that's still there when you come out of the store.
The only exception is if you're locking the bike in your garage or a locked storage unit. If it's never in public, the lock is just a deterrent for the honest people. But if you're commuting, running errands, or parking at work, you need a real lock.
The other thing to consider is the cost of the battery. Most e-bike batteries are removable. If you have a battery that slides out, take it with you. A ~$600 battery is worth more than most locks.
What I'm Testing Next
I've got a new chain lock from Kryptonite on order, the Evolution Series 4, and I'm going to test it against my bolt cutters and a friend's angle grinder. I'm also working on a long-term test of the Hiplok D1000 to see if it holds up after a year of daily use. I'll update this when I have the results.
In the meantime, the short version is this: spend ~$100 on a U-lock, lock the rear triangle and rear wheel, and take your battery with you. That's the difference between a bike you ride for years and a bike you report to the police.